There and back… and there again

Hello friends! I figured I should update this thing as I have some pretty awesome news pertaining to Africa. After a stressful decision-making process involving many sleepless nights, calls to my parents at ungodly hours of the morning, and (several) margaritas with friends, I have decided to join the Peace Corps! I will be doing preventive health and environmental education in Senegal. I leave on March 9th for two days of training in Washington, DC, and then we ship off to Africa. I am ecstatic and giddy and thoughtful and terrified down to my bone marrow, but above all, I am so incredibly grateful to have this opportunity to make a difference and to experience more of Africa and its gorgeous culture. I hope you’ll continue the journey with me at my brand spankin’ new blog: melindainsenegal.wordpress.com! I’ll go more into detail on there about my thought process throughout these next few months, and then, assuming I have any semblance of decent internet access while in Senegal, I will update it as often as I can for the 27 months of my service. Thanks for reading!!

Love,

Mel

last day.

8/27/2010

Because I can’t really start out this post without mentioning it: TONIGHT IS MY LAST NIGHT SLEEPING IN UGANDA. AHHHH!!!

Things have been a total whirlwind. My last week in Bwindi was INSANE. Most everyone from Kampala was crammed into the camp and we had nonstop all-day workshops and meetings every single day. The night before I left, I was working up until 10 at night and a million people were asking me to do things all at once, which I actually really enjoyed in the sick way that only Type-A personalities can enjoy work-related stress.

(Side note: something that happened that night that happened a lot while I was here: since I’m American and am (almost) a college graduate, people in the community have caught on and have been not-so-subtly asking me to help them do work for their community organizations since I can write and have knowledge of social media. This is a tricky situation and a very slippery slope. Past me would have agreed to do every single thing and help out as much as I could, which I am still inclined to do. But, working here has further educated me about the importance of sustainability. I’m not going to do work for people when they should be learning, building skills, and doing the work themselves to create a plausible future for their organizations. Because if there gets to be a day when I have other priorities and can’t do the work for them anymore, they’re back at square one with no knowledge since I’ve done everything for them in the past. So instead of agreeing to do the work for them, I helped those who asked to get off the ground by teaching them things, like how to set up and maintain blogs and making edits to their work explaining how to word things more effectively. I think there are some people who will continue to try and contact me for work, but I really hope I can turn those requests for help around by prompting them through the steps they need to get through to do the work themselves. Africa definitely needs fewer people who are doing things and more people who are teaching things.)

Anyway, I was also delivered a handmade walking stick that night from Timothy the craft man that still had varnish drying on it. (And the man who delivered it demanded that I pay him 2,000 shillings for transport, despite the fact that it was a gift I didn’t ask for.) I appreciated the gesture, but honestly, I don’t think you could pick a more impractical gift for someone who is about to get on a plane. I had to leave it behind since it didn’t fit in my suitcase and smelled like strong shoe polish. Too bad, because it was an epic walking stick.

So the next morning (yesterday), we left Bwindi to go back to Kampala. We were supposed to leave at 8 am, and left at 10 am, aka right on schedule for African time (I’ll have you know that I was ready at 7:30 in typical me fashion. I will never, ever be able to abide by African time.) Before we left, I decided to get fancy and scrubbed off the 8-weeks’ worth of dirt that had accumulated around my ankles with wet-wipes. Despite the fact that I’ve had the privilege of warm showers at the camp (outdoor, 4-minute showers, but warm ones!!) I don’t think I will actually feel clean again until I get away from the perpetual African red dust, which is even worse in Kampala.

So yeah, the drive back. I went back with the CEO and her two kids. It was a ten-hour drive over some pretty miserable road conditions, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as our drive coming to Bwindi for some reason. Maybe it was because we were taking a different car with a different driver, or maybe it’s because I’ve become a hardened badass who doesn’t even flinch at the sight of 3-foot-deep potholes anymore. I’m gonna go with the latter.

We rolled into Kampala close to 10 pm, and I was apprehensive because they booked me into a different guesthouse than the one I had stayed in before. Turns out I didn’t have to worry because this place is a PALACE. It has flush toilets, a shower, a huge, comfortable bed, NO mosquitoes, and a TELEVISION in the room. It also has SUPERIOR lighting and a full-length mirror in the bathroom, which was an interesting experience… the only mirror I had in Bwindi was a very dusty one about the size of a textbook, and it was always very dark in my tent, even with the dim lights turned on. So here I was last night, standing in this amazingly-lit bathroom in front of a full-length mirror. I haven’t seen myself in 8 weeks. I just stood there and stared for a few minutes. I looked rough. Insanely wavy and matted hair, slightly longer than when I got here, freckles everywhere and a tan on my arms that could easily rival my brother’s complexion (which NEVER happens). I looked fried and wild. Definitely like I had been in the African wilderness for 10 weeks. Success, I guess?

After I did a little happy dance about my newfound amenities, I alerted my loved ones about my safe arrival and luxurious new space, and crashed hardcore.

This morning, I decided to live up the dirtiness as much as I could by going to breakfast without showering first. I sat on a cushy couch in front of a TV that was playing 5-year-old reruns of “The O.C.” and ate the food that was brought to me: a hunk of pineapple and two mini cabbage eggrolls. Definitely the most random breakfast I’ve had here.

So now I’m at the office, finishing up some last-minute work. Richard gave me some money to treat myself to lunch, so I got a chicken and cheese sandwich and a vanilla yogurt smoothie from my favorite little stand in Kampala. It’s clean and outdoors and it’s never crowded, and the food is yummy and simple. I ate while people-watching and was weirded out by the large number of mzungus around compared to Bwindi. I then bought some final presents for my Cinci people and came back, and here I am.

Tonight, I plan on watching a lot of bad African TV and then passing out. Maybe I’ll get crazy and have a drink at the hotel bar. Tomorrow, I think I’m going to meet up with the CEO one last time and then I’ll be driven to the Entebbe airport in the evening to begin my 30-hour odyssey back to Cincinnati.

I have a lot I want to say about my full 2 months here, but I need some time to think about it. The next time I write will most likely be from the other side of the ocean. Part of me is sad to leave this gorgeous part of the world, but I can’t wait to see everybody!!

Much love.

me looking all important while presenting health education stuff at a meeting

me with Alex and Dr. Gladys at the Bwindi camp

one of the millions of group photos. Ugandans love group photos haha.

about to depart with an adorable child in my lap

greens and other less important topics

8/24/2010

So, my mother has been nagging me to update this thing, and I do admit that it’s been awhile. Things have been busy around here… well, in a Ugandan sense, anyway. I just wrote a big long post full of self-reflective mumbo-jumbo, but then realized that you guys probably don’t want to hear about all that. So here’s a picture of my lunch the other day:

greens, glorious greens!

Those would be GREENS. REAL GREENS. They were steamed and salty and stringy and gritty and glorious. They had tomatoes in them. I love Solomon (the cook). He and I were talking the other day about how I really love spinach, and he goes “Spinach, eh?” and I saw the wheels turning and I knew he was going to make me a tasty spinach-like concoction. LOVE LOVE LOVE. Oh, and those are matoke fingers and avocado and rice. I’m not the biggest fan of matoke. It tastes bland and starchy like potatoes. Actually, most Ugandan food tastes like potatoes.

Anyway. Since I last wrote, a few things have happened. Alex and I had some meetings with the Mukono and Bujengwe volunteers regarding some issues of doing sanitation, hygiene, and family planning work in the communities. I gave recommendations for further effectiveness and etc. One of the meetings started 2 hours late and then ended after 30 seconds because we decided to postpone it due to some kind of elections going on (there ALWAYS seem to be elections going on in Uganda.) Apparently, elections here are super corrupt because the moderators are often paid off and people sneak in multiple votes because they just put slips of paper into a box. Oy.

outdoor meeting time

The CEO and a whole crew of people came to camp two days ago, which made me extremely excited. I’ve been alone here since Gillian left, except for one night when a Swiss couple came to track the gorillas. They spoke very good English, and also spoke German (!!) and they were very nice and adorably enthusiastic about gorilla tracking. They were doing a safari around Africa together, and had already gone chimp tracking in Kenya, I think.

Everyone keeps assuming that I’ve seen the gorillas already because I’ve been here for so long and I’m obviously an American with tons of money and can shell out $500 for tracking no problem. Whenever I tell them I haven’t gone, they can’t fathom the fact that I can’t afford it. It’s really depressing sometimes because it brings my financial situation to a harsh reality, and the fact that I’ve now been rejected from 5 job opportunities this month isn’t helping matters. I’m not sure what these jobs want me to do. Do they want me to juggle? Do flips? I couldn’t even get an interview at Whole Foods, which was a real low point for me. I’m going to be a college graduate in a week. I can write. I’m a hard worker. I’ve applied to jobs that would be perfect for my skill set and really spend time crafting my cover letters, but I always end up getting that curt rejection letter in my inbox. It’s frustrating. And I know I’ve only been looking for a few months now, and I’ve heard of people who look for almost a year before finding a job, but sometimes it can really wear a person down. It’s okay though, because I have a tentative plan in place. Something will come up, sooner or later. Everything happens for a reason, so I’m rolling with it.

Anyway, back to the CEO and crew. Most of the Kampala gang are now here, plus another mzungu lady (!!!) named Christine, who is an animal expert and rabbit breeder. We had an all-day workshop yesterday training the community animal health workers how to recognize signs of illness in livestock, etc. The workshop lasted from 11 until about 6, and started 2 hours late (naturally). Not really directly relevant to my studies, but was interesting nonetheless, and as we know, animal and human diseases are all interconnected.

proof of connectedness

It’s been interesting to talk to Christine because she’s been living in Kampala for 5 years and has some interesting perspectives. I love being able to talk to other mzungus because it makes me feel like I’m not actually going crazy. Christine also inspired me to try to go running again on these horrible roads after she went early one morning. So this morning, I got up at 5:45, hell-bent on an exhilarating run, but it was PITCH black outside when I got out to the road at 6, and I didn’t feel safe even with my flashlight. So I went back to bed for an hour, ate breakfast, and set off around 10 instead.

Oh my goodness. I’ve been hiking and taking long walks and such fairly regularly since I’ve been here, but I only tried running once at the beginning of my stay in Bwindi. After 2 months of not running at all, you lose MEGA amounts of endurance. I lasted less than 20 minutes before I had to start doing running/walking intervals. I can’t wait to get back into shape when I get back!!

For the rest of this week, we’re having meetings. Well, today and tomorrow we are, at least. And then I go back to Kampala on Thursday and chill there until Saturday night, when I fly back to Cinci!! I can’t wait to be home with the people I love, and to start working on the next chapter of my life, whatever that may be.

coming back to Obama country!

(Also, hilarious political sidenote: a guy who stopped by the camp asked me what I was doing after graduation, and I told him I wasn’t really sure yet. His response: “Well, just follow your dreams! Who knows, you might be the next Sarah Palin!” Completely serious.)

confession

8/12/2010

Okay. I have a confession to make.

When I was in Kampala, I went to the grocery store (oh, the convenience of grocery stores!!) and spotted a bag of European-style butter cookies. These cookies resembled the exact cookies that I was raised on in my childhood in Germany; golden, buttery little bundles of crumb-filled joy, some drizzled in chocolate, others imprinted with a little dot of chewy strawberry jam. Some were in the shape of pretzels (which still confuses me to this day) sprinkled with fat sugar granules instead of salt, and others were in the shape of hearts. I was overjoyed and surprised to find them in Uganda, of all places. Well, I bought this bag of cookies with the best of intentions to give it to my parents as a gift upon my home-coming. They made it safely through the 10-hour car voyage to Bwindi and for 6 weeks have been nestled in my bag of goodies that I plan to bestow upon my loved ones when I return.

Since then, I’ve been here in Bwindi, where I have very little control of the food I get to eat. I am served all three meals here at the camp, and while they are nice and filling and all that, they mostly consist of beans and starch and mystery meat, which oftentimes leaves something to be desired by the palate. And sometimes, a girl’s palate desires a cookie.

Oh, how I tried to resist their siren call. For weeks and weeks and weeks. I always told myself that if I wanted something sweet, I could walk up the hill and purchase an (overpriced) candy bar from the single corner store in Bwindi. I never ended up doing it, and then I had some unexpected expenses and completely ran out of shillings. And then today, I was missing home, and my lunch of rice and beans made me sigh at how discontent it left me. And then I went to my tent, telling myself that I was just going to go grab my book, but alas, deep down, I knew the true motive.

10 minutes later and half of my parents’ cookies are gone.

It’s okay mom and dad, they were all crumbly and melty anyway and wouldn’t have been presentable to give you as a present. (Plus, I have some other things to give you anyways.) But they still tasted AWESOME.

some letters

8/11/2010

A few people and things I would like to address:

Dear Children Everywhere in Uganda,

It breaks my heart when, the second after I say hello to you, you demand “GIVE ME MONEY!” I have no money for you, and even if I did, I wouldn’t give it to you; I would use it to help build something sustainable for you. I know that you are young and you don’t understand what “sustainability” means, but someday I hope you will know it, and I hope you will appreciate it. I hope you will teach your children not to frantically beg any white person who comes their way for money. Teach them to be hungry for knowledge about someone else’s culture, not for their material things. Teach them to work hard and persevere and see beyond their immediate surroundings. Begging is never the answer, and even the tourists who do give you money aren’t doing you any favors. You need to lift yourselves up, and I know you can, because your parents are some of the strongest people I’ve ever met.

Dear Ugandan Pineapples,

I don’t think I’ve ever really TASTED what a pineapple actually tastes like until I tasted it here. You are fabulous. Tart, juicy, citrus party in my mouth. Same goes for bananas. Everything is just so sweet. Keep up the good work, fruits. *High five.*
Dear Rainy Season,

I think you’re here a month early, and it’s making me sad. I can’t keep going to bed at 7:30 every night due to the lack of solar power (true story). Come on, now.

(A dear friend named CHRISSAY CAMPBELL sent me an article entitled “Cincinnati is just OK” and it inspired me to write this:)

Dear Cincinnati,

Oh, Cincinnati. I feel like I owe you an apology. Although you’re sketchy and humid and not as hip as a lot of other cities, I feel like I’ve wronged you more than you deserve. I thought that coming to Africa would provide me with an escape from you. I thought being in Africa would remind me of just how pitiful you are; it would confirm my longstanding disgust of you. Au contraire! Being in Africa has actually put you in a more rosy light for me. Sure, you may be dirty and I may have had a homeless person break into my apartment building once, but Cincinnati, you have so many things going for you. You have a farmer’s market and a pretty nice downtown area and that gorgeous park that’s built on a cliff near my old (dearly, dearly missed) apartment. You contain my university where I have met so many people I love, and who have impacted my life. You have Ambar, home of the best Indian food that has ever passed my lips. And, most importantly, you have really, really good margaritas. (Kidding about the ‘most importantly’ part. Maybe.)

But seriously Cincinnati, you have so many little nooks and crannies where things have happened to me, big and small. You have my memories. And I am a sucker for memories. You never did me wrong; I just refused to make the best of you. And now that it looks like I might not be around you for much longer, I’m a little bit… sad. Now, don’t get the wrong idea. This doesn’t mean that I want to be with you forever. It just means that I’ll miss your little quirks… sometimes. And, okay, I’ll admit that you’re sort of cute, in a roundabout kind of way. Like a pug dog, or Renee Zellweger. But really, most of all, you’re home. I guess it took spending a summer on a different continent for me to admit that.

Stay real, Queen City. I’ll see you in 18 days.

❤ Melinda

the ceiling in a volunteer's house who we visited today. Christmas cards. Beach balls. Baby doll heads. You know, normal things to be hanging from a ceiling.

mish mash.

8/8/2010

First up on the agenda for today: I would like to give a shout-out to some possible new readers. According to my nifty WordPress stats, the most recent Google search that has led people to find my blog is:

“one of them touching the genital area in a way caused you to narrow”

Dear person who is looking to cause people to narrow by touching their genitals: I am sorry if this blog is not what you were looking for. I’m guessing it’s probably not what you were looking for. Actually, I’m not quite sure what you’re looking for, but I’m pretty sure that this isn’t it. Good luck in your search, sir (or madame?)

Anyway.

Today is Sunday, which means that I have 20 more days here before I board the plane back to Cincinnati. A lot has been going on, friends. Well actually, not a whole lot has been going on here in Uganda, but a lot has been going on in my head and decisions are being made outside of Uganda that could potentially change my life entirely. Big things are happening. Unexpected things. Sorry to be vague, but there’s a lot up in the air at the moment. I should know a little more by next week. In the meantime, I’m crossing my fingers.

Within Uganda, things are slow. I’m just trying to enjoy the rest of my time here while trying not to be a productivity-hungry Westerner. I’ve been taking walks in the mountains and doing spreadsheets and sitting in meetings and going to funerals (I went to one this past week of a dude who died at 90, which is unheard of for around here– the life expectancy is in the 60’s.) I also had an authentic local Ugandan meal at a community member’s house last night with Alex and Gillian. The guy is a professional cook and really went out of his way to make a spread for us; it was awesome. But Ugandans eat a LOT. I had one giant plate full of beans and matoke and avocado and greens and cassava and pineapple and was stuffed, but these dudes are able to pound 3 plates with no problem, plus meat (which I politely declined because I’m not sure what kind of meat it was…) and they also drink porridge with the meal, which is basically watered-down cold cream of wheat (which I also politely declined.) The cook’s mother also stopped by and was practically in tears because she was so happy that Gillian and I were visiting the village, and she called us her granddaughters. So, so sweet.

haha pretty unflattering picture of the cook (Dionazio I think was his name?) and Alex

In other news, I modeled with a pineapple that I found growing outside my tent the other day. Sometimes you have to come up with ways to make yourself laugh. It worked.


Then Tor came over to the camp to do some work (as he does frequently these days) carrying two huge stalks of sugar cane and a knife.
“What are you doing with all that sugar cane?” I asked.
“I’m gonna eat it,” he said, and gave me a look that said, ‘duh.’
“Do you actually eat it, or do you just kind of chew on it?” I asked.
Tor looked at me like I was a martian.
“You’ve never had sugar cane?” he asked.
“Uh, no,” I said.
He stared at me for a second and then cut off a hunk with his knife and tossed it to me.
Tor never really explains anything; you just kind of have to follow his lead. So I watched him as he hacked off pieces of sugar cane from the stalk and chewed it up before spitting it out onto the gravel around the edges of the camp. I tried it. It was amazing. You chew on the fibrous stick and suck out all the sugar water and then gnaw off and spit out the dry fiber. It’s addicting. I might have to locate a personal stash.

nom nom nom

Other than that, there’s not too much to report. I will update on the potentially exciting news as soon as I know more. And with that, I will end on this picture of the cutest little girl I think I’ve ever seen in my life:

Love and pineapples,

Mel

sittin’ on the dock of the bay…

8/5/2010

…wasting time.

I feel a lot like Otis Redding right now.

Anyway.

Last night, Tor invited me to the guesthouse where he eats dinner to talk with the woman who is in charge of the HIV unit at the hospital. I kind of just wanted to curl up in my tent and go to bed at 8 (it was one of those days), but I decided to man up and I went.

It was actually a really good time. There were only a few people there and the guesthouse staff was all very nice. The guesthouse itself was off the beaten path and had all kinds of gorgeous flowers and a rose arbor and was quiet and incredibly peaceful. The HIV woman stopped by, but we didn’t talk about HIV, which I was sort of relieved about. We ended up drinking beer and playing Egyptian rat screw and listening to underground hip-hop and old blues songs on Tor’s computer. Sometimes it’s just a relief to have some sense of normalcy. I’m always bracing myself for the usual stares and questions whenever I go anywhere outside my campsite, but going to the guesthouse was like I had stepped into my “past life” from 7 weeks ago (although it feels like a year since I’ve been home, honestly). I didn’t have to try and explain myself and my strange American tendencies, or deal with people shouting “MZUNGU!!” at me every 10 seconds. I was just a white person playing cards and drinking beer and for once there were no eyes on me or on what I was doing; I was anonymous. Being unnoticed has never felt so good. It was just what I needed.

We’re going to Bujengwe again today on the boda-boda (which is now back from the repair shop for the second or third time…), but I have some time to kill before we go. Therefore, I thought I’d make a list of things I’m glad that I brought with me to Africa and things that I’m kicking myself for bringing now that I’m here, just FYI in case anyone reading this is thinking of making the trek out here.

I’m SO glad I brought:

–A flashlight. The power here goes out at night sometimes, which makes nighttime latrine trips pretty scary because you can’t see your way there and you’re not sure where all the spiders are hanging out. Plus, the paths in the camp are all very dark, and there are no streetlights anywhere outside the camp either.

–Hand sanitizer. Seriously, bring it, and bring a LOT of it. It might not be as effective as soap and water, but there is honestly not a lot of soap and water here. And it gives you peace of mind to know you can use it after you’ve just shaken hands with a guy who most definitely had poop all over his fingers.

–Face wipes. Wasteful? Maybe. Convenient? Yes. It definitely beats trying to wash your face with a pitcher of water. I don’t use these babies in the states, but they’re a luxury that I’m glad I allowed myself to have here.

–Hiking boots. I love, love, love my hiking boots and I’m so glad I splurged on them for this trip. I have been hiking in the mountains more times than I can count at this point, whether to visit communities or to get a little exercise. The rocks in the soil here are very loose and the grips on my boots have saved me several times from falling while going up and down steep hills.

–Fleece zip-up sweatshirt. It gets really cold here in the mountains at night. I’ve worn this thing pretty much every day at some point. Comfy and durable.

–Books. I’ve never read so much in my life. I brought three books and was done with all of them about 4 weeks in. Luckily I was loaned other books to read by various people. Cheap entertainment, and a nice little escape when you need it.

–Clif bars. I actually only brought enough to last me two weeks and I really wish I had brought more. Perfect for situations when you don’t feel safe eating the food somewhere, or when you get stranded without food somewhere, or when you just want something that reminds you of home and kind of tastes like a cookie (I haven’t really seen many baked goods or desserts around here in general.)

–Laptop. Of course, I kind of had to bring it for my internship, but I would have brought it anyway had I not needed it for work. Internet access, pictures of all my loved ones, music. Duh. Bring it.

Things I brought that I really don’t need after all:

–Toooo many clothes. I brought about 5 different skirts, several varieties of pants, even dressy clothes, which I have NEVER worn. I wear two pairs of pants pretty consistently with the occasional skirt and a rotation of about 6 or 7 shirts. Stupid, stupid, stupid.

–A fanny pack. Yes, I brought a fanny pack because I figured that’s what you’re supposed to wear here. They’re small, convenient, functional, blah blah. The truth is, the tourists who do bring fanny packs look ridiculous. You don’t NEED a fanny pack here. I carry around a regular purse/bag with a long shoulder strap. The area around here is pretty safe and nobody’s going to try and steal your stuff. Tor and I were also talking about how hilarious it is that the tourists all come decked out in visors and special zip-off pants and extreme rain gear, whereas the locals are out working in the fields wearing button-up blazers. People in Africa don’t wear all that safari crap; don’t bring it. Bring functional things, but only if they’re absolutely necessarily. You can get by with a lot less stuff that you might think.

–Running shoes. I tried running here once and I don’t think I want to try it again. I ended up swallowing TONS of dust and almost wiping out several times on the pointy rocks sticking up out of the ground everywhere. Not to mention the hills and the potholes and the boda-bodas zipping around every corner. I think I’ll stick with hiking until I get back to the states.

…So, just kidding, we’re not going out to Bujengwe after all. The bike is still broken.

I guess I’ll watch the cows walk by or something.

Still missing everybody. A lot.

Polam-polam

8/3/2010

I have an entertaining anecdote for you all today. Keep in mind that I’m not talking about this from a place of frustration– I actually think the whole situation is hilarious and I think it’s a good example of the confusion that goes on here on a daily basis.

So, since I’m the only guest staying here now (or thought I was… there’s another very nice vet who just arrived,) I told the cook and one of the other server guys that it wasn’t necessary for them to make a special dinner just for me– they usually serve huge dinner portions anyway and I barely ever eat all of it and I don’t want to waste their food. I explained that I wanted to make less work for them, and that I would be perfectly happy with eating some fruit and bread for dinner– more like a snack than a meal. I figured this would make them happy because they don’t really have to cook anything and there would be much less wasting of food.

That night, I was brought the usual massive plate of fish and rice for dinner. I explained to them again that I just wanted something small for dinner in the future– like bread and fruit. They good-naturedly said that they understood and that they would serve me something smaller the next night.

Dinner the following evening was a triple-decker tomato, mayo, and cheese sandwich with coleslaw and French fries. And lunch today was a plate of sliced pineapple and two bananas. Gillian (the new vet) and I had a good laugh over this. I explained that lunch could be a normal meal, but that the fruit would be good for dinner. When I asked for a slice of bread and avocado to supplement my fruit lunch, I got a peanut butter sandwich… with avocado on the side though. Progress.

Just an example of how making any kind of a change here always goes realllllly “polam-polam”; slowly slowly. I think we’ve got it all straightened out now though because I got a hefty hunk of avocado with bread and fruit for dinner tonight. Sweet sweet success! Now if only we could get people to start boiling their water and washing their hands and making fewer babies. On another note, all of the job searching I’ve been doing has also yielded some progress– I have a job interview! It will be conducted over the phone tomorrow night and I really, really hope I don’t run out of minutes. Wish me luck; I need this, and the position looks like it’s right up my alley ☺

miss you all ❤

on building toilets and goodbyes

7/30/2010

Yesterday, while Stephen, Ryan the Intern, and Hameed (new vet on staff!) were being attacked by wasps while collecting gorilla poo in the forest, I was constructing a latrine and being accosted by Batwa women who wanted their sons to marry me.

Day in the life.

The latrine-building process was facilitated by a dude named Tor (although I thought his name was ‘Thor’ for the longest time and had trouble picturing him as anything other than a Viking before I met him.) Tor is with the California rotary and will be here building latrines until December. He was staying in the same guesthouse as Dr. Lynne and Dr. Amy and they gave me his number to contact him about hygiene and sanitation stuff. After a few missed connections, we finally met on the road in the middle of nowhere. Alex had stopped the boda-boda to talk to someone and this rotary car drove up with a white guy driving.

“Where you headed?” my fellow mzungu said.

“Back to the CTPH camp,” I said.

“Are you Melinda?” he asked, as if he were a great prophet.

“Are you Thor?” I asked.

“Tor,” he said.

And so it began. Somehow I volunteered myself to go build latrines in the mountains with a dude named Tor.

I believe I had somehow convinced Tor that I was an expert craftswoman through my stories of doing drywall, insulation, and cement mixing on my two alternative spring break trips to Louisiana and El Salvador. I don’t know what he expected of my skills, but I can bet that he was disappointed. Try as I might to spackle the latrine floor with cement to press down the wire mesh, the mesh would spring back up every time, and eventually some other dude just started working in my spot and I was shamefully exiled. So I became the cement woman (“omishenyi nyabo”) and it was my job to slop handfuls of cement onto the latrine floor for the other men to spread. I then became the water woman and poured water from a large plastic jug (called a “jerry can”) into one cup for all the men to share. I also carried a bag of sand across the valley at one point, and carried a 2 by 4 across the other side again on my head, like a legit African nyabo. Except that the dudes told me I looked dumb, or that I was going to hurt myself (I can’t speak Rukiga) and told me to carry it on my shoulder, which turned out to be a lot more painful than the head-carrying method, actually. I also ate posho and beans, true African-style, which means that we cooked it in a pot outside and ate it with our hands in a circle. Past me from about 7 years ago would have had a heart attack.

It was a satisfying day, besides the scary part when the small Batwa woman came up to me and flung her arms around my waist while apparently telling me to get in her house so she could marry me off to one of her sons. She then followed the car when Tor drove me back to Buhoma, wearing an open button-down shirt and a red bra. She spoke to Tor for a few minutes and then he drove away.

“What was that all about?” I asked.

“Nothing. That’s what that was about,” Tor said in a way that only a guy named Tor can.

Sometimes, questions just aren’t answered in Uganda. I’m becoming okay with that.
Dr. Amy left today, which was sad. I like Dr. Amy a lot. She shares my sense of sarcasm and we were able to commiserate about our experiences of being strangers in a strange land. She also left me with two books to read, which I am incredibly grateful for since I finished The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo two nights ago (you should read it!!).

Today was also filled with a lot of motorbike riding. Alex and I rode out to Kanungu, which took 2 hours to get to, had a 30-minute meeting with the district health inspector, and then rode 2 hours back. Got some good notes, but my butt is still uncomfortably numb.

Ryan the Intern leaves tomorrow (or Sunday? Who knows?), along with Hameed and Stephen, which effectively leaves me as the only non-worker staying here at the campsite. It will be interesting eating by myself and having nobody to talk to about the giant bug that I attacked in my tent, or the texture of cow crap, or the importance of buying locally-grown produce. I salute you, Ryan and Hameed (if you even read this?). You are both extremely knowledgeable and cool guys, and I know that you’re both going to be awesome veterinarians.

I have no idea what’s going on next week, but I’m making an effort to stay in the present. Therefore, everything is completely right with the world, because I am predicting fresh avocado on my plate at dinner and a nice long reading session before bed.

Tor planning out the latrine floor

workin' the 2 by 4

Batwa men working on the latrine floor

me and this Batwa kid who was hell-bent on ignoring me haha

lunch-- posho and beans

leveling ground for another latrine site

pretty view from the building site

one month

7/28/2010

Today marks one month left here in Uganda.

I don’t really know how I feel about this. I guess I’ll phrase it this way: Uganda is the kind of place that gives you tough love. One day it seems like nobody understands you and everywhere you turn people are asking you for things you can’t give, and you’re struck with an uncomfortable mixture of profound sadness and anger. And then the next day you’re cruising on the back of a motorbike to go out into communities where classrooms full of 100 children sing songs for you and jump up to touch your hair. Yet at the same time, the children in those classrooms are drinking dirty water from a stream because the school hasn’t bothered to build a structure for the water boiler to sit in– even though they have the funding. Every single day is simultaneously new, frustrating, elating, and fulfilling. Everybody struggles and the triumphs are few, but when there are triumphs, they are incredible. The people here who have practically nothing are some of the most content people I’ve ever met, which has inspired me in uncountable ways to have less, make less, be less. Talking to all the people here– vets, journalists, environmentalists– has been an enormous learning experience, and I feel like my future life’s work is slowly coming into focus a little more every day. So yes, I am happy to be here. I am happy to stay here for one more month. I am happy to build latrines tomorrow for the Batwa people. I am happy to go to bed at 9 pm in my tent that also houses my little mouse friend that craps on my sink. I love it here, even when I get tough love in return. Some days I get beaten up, and I’m a better person for it. But most of my days here are beautiful, and I wouldn’t trade them for anything.

on the back of a boda-boda-- don't try this at home, kids

kids at Bujengwe Primary School. They have 6 teachers, but they need 14.

me with Dr. Lynne and Dr. Amy, visiting doctors from Stanford to facilitate the IUD training